There Goes Connie

Evergreen Plantation and B & C Seafood

04/18/2016 By: CCPearsoncomment

We began our tour of Evergreen Plantation (4677 Highway 77, Edgard, LA) on the back side of the property where a double row of 22 slave cabins still remain in their original location. 103 slaves were housed here during the plantation’s hey-day. After emancipation, the cabins continued to be inhabited until 1944. Under the Code Noir (Black Code), slave owners were required to “clothe, house, and feed” their slaves, and EVERYBODY ate off the land. The cabins were about 12′ x 24′ with 2 families in each one.

A 2-family slave cabin.

A list displayed in this section of the property, accounts for each slave living there in 1835 by their names, their work on the plantation and their monetary value. We have this list because of an inventory required of the owner when he almost went bankrupt and had to compile a financial statement.

List of slaves from the owner’s financial accounting.

The Creole way of life was overwhelmingly Catholic, so the slaves were required to be baptized as infants whether they continued to practice Catholicism or not. In this environment, voodoo and Catholicism were very similar. (Just as a sidenote, Steve and I witnessed a similar situation during our first mission trip to Brazil back in 1990. There was a heavy infiltration of spiritism into the practices of the Catholic church).

House slaves slept in cabins much closer to the house and may have appeared to have an easier life, but, in fact, they were at the beck and call of their masters 24 hours a day, seven days a week and didn’t have the privacy of the “back slaves.”

The big house was built in 1790 as a Creole-style house, but it was changed to a Greek Revival style in 1832. At that time the front double staircases were added. Greek Revival style is all about symmetry and balance. The inside is STILL Creole style.

We were not able to see all of the rooms on our tour because “Roots, the Remake” was being filmed. When movies want to film scenes on these plantations, they are generally welcome because the income helps to maintain the property.

Fireplace in the separate kitchen cabin.

After this tour, we continued down River Road and found B & C Seafood, owned by Thomas Breaux. The food was authentically Cajun, prepared by Cajuns to be eaten by Cajuns. Delicious! I highly recommend this very cultural experience. You might want to brush up on your French before you walk in. You are sure to hear it spoken by many of the patrons dining around you. Check out their website.

Parade of Louisiana Plantations: Day 1 afternoon – San Francisco

04/13/2016 By: CCPearsoncomment

San Francisco Plantation was next. I was immediately surprised by the bright colors and by how close the mansion was to the highway. We learned that most of these plantation homes could easily see the river in their early days, but the very important levee that has since been built obscures the view. However, with disasters such as Katrina still fresh on everyone’s minds, no one complains.

On this tour, the story of the Marmillion family was shared. Valsin Marmillion married Louise von Seybold after meeting her during a trip to Europe. Her Bavarian heritage is reflected in many of the architectural and decorating details of this home. It is NOT a typical white mansion. No, this one has lots of gingerbread and ornamentation. Marathon Oil has been a very generous benefactor of the San Francisco Plantation. The property of the plantation joins that of the oil company.

In order to stay in the area that we were touring, we checked into the Holiday Inn Express in LaPlace, Louisiana. It was an especially nice Holiday Inn Express. We really enjoyed the ceiling fan in the room, the walk-in massage shower, and the afternoon happy hour with very substantial snacks, including red beans and rice, hot spinach dip, veggies, cheeses and dips. In addition there was a large comfy chair and ottoman in the room as well as a nice desk. This HI Express had a swamp area between it and I-10. The sounds of all that nature was intriguing. We definitely kept our eyes peeled for gators and snakes when we were in the parking lot!

Holiday Inn Express walk-in massage shower

Dinner on Day 1 was at New Orleans Hamburger and Seafood Company. Alligator bites, anyone?

Just a few more thoughts about this part of the country — As you probably know, in Louisiana, counties aren’t called counties, they are called parishes. And the term “River Parishes” refers specifically to St. James Parish, St. Charles Parish and St. John the Baptist Parish. Those 3 span both sides of the Mississippi River between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. They love to claim Fats Domino and Corey Webster (New York Giants) among their famous past residents, and proudly mention that the first black, multilingual newspaper in the United States was printed in the River Parishes. Jo Banner, the communication manager and film coordinator for New Orleans Plantation Country, loves talking about her native area and boasts of her Creole heritage. She specifically mentioned the strong religious identity with the Catholic church and how closely-connected people are to their families. If you substitute the word “Protestant” for “Catholic” in the previous sentence, it sounds a lot like North Alabama, doesn’t it?

Parade of Louisiana Plantations: Day 1 morning – Destrehan

04/11/2016 By: CCPearsoncomment

I have been a faithful reader of Southern Living Magazine since AT LEAST the mid-1980’s and probably longer. When my children were young, I can remember drooling and dreaming about one day visiting the plantations along the Great River Road between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, Louisiana. I am a card-carrying, VIRGIN mint julep and sweet tea drinking, Southern belle – at least in my own mind. When I was about 12, I even talked my Momma into buying me a huge hooped skirt evening gown to wear for my upcoming GA coronation and end-of-year piano recital. She never once said, “You might want to really think this through,” because she could tell I had fallen in love with that dress. Are you getting this mental picture? I knelt down to be “crowned” on the stage at church. What happened? That dress billowed forth all around me, and I was swallowed up in white tulle and fake pink roses. Then came the recital. I walked out to play my piece, sat on the bench, and there wasn’t enough room for all that dress to land. My hands ended up a very uncomfortable distance from the actual keyboard, and who knew if my foot ever found the pedal??!!! Let’s just say that I learned my lesson about Southern belles and their dresses.

But, I digress. Back to the plantations.

Recently, two factors converged. 1) My Silver Fox and I were celebrating our 45th wedding anniversary, which is a time I can normally convince him that we need to do something special. And 2) I have become a travel writer. Sounded like a PERFECT time to finally see those plantations. He agreed. We threw in a Swamp Tour for manliness purposes, and started making our plans. We had a Sunday night to Saturday morning time frame and wanted to cover as much territory as possible. In that period, we spent a night in the French Quarter of New Orleans, toured 10 plantations, visited 2 museums, ate AMAZING food, and spent the night in 2 hotels, in one bed and breakfast and on the grounds of 3 plantations. Oh the towering live oak trees! Oh the graceful Spanish moss! Oh my goodness, the many versions of bread pudding!

Destrehan back side

Destrehan live oak with Spanish moss

On our first full day, we drove north out of New Orleans and arrived at Destrehan Plantation in time for a 9:30 a.m. tour. Barbara Fair was our guide that day, and our education of life along in the Mississippi River in the late 1700’s and all of the 1800’s began.

Destrehan tour guide Barbara Fair

We heard the story of Jean Noel Destrehan, his wife Marie Celeste and their 14 children, and explored the architecture of the house that took 3 years to build and was all done by hand using materials found on the property. We learned about Essex, the valuable slave who was a barrel-maker, and Marguerite, who cooked, did the laundry and taught table manners to the owner’s children. We saw a giant rolling pin that was used to flatten the mattress every morning and the men’s drawing room with playing cards without numbers on them. We even saw what had to have been one of the very first recliners. After this first tour, I had already taken 6 pages of notes and several dozen photos!

Destrehan bed with rolling pin for smoothing the mattress

Destrehan – one of the very first recliners

Destrehan plantation bell

Destrehan detached kitchen

We headed to our Swamp Tour next already covered here and then found Connie’s Grill in Reserve, LA. for lunch. The Monday special was grilled pork chops, red beans and rice (of COURSE), salad, bread and dessert. Delicious.

Monday lunch special

Connie’s grill interior

Eating Creole in NOLA

04/06/2016 By: CCPearsoncomment

There are so many world-class and world-famous restaurants in New Orleans, Louisiana. Some are priced WAY out of my price range. Probably MOST of the famous ones fall into that category. Emeril Lagasse has made a fortune in that city. There are certainly times when you are in the Big Easy to celebrate a significant birthday or anniversary. By all means, GO to one of those ritzy places and enjoy every bite.

However, if you want to have some great food at reasonable prices along with the other normal people in town, then may I suggest Gumbo Shop on Saint Peter Street in the French Quarter?

Front exterior of Gumbo Shop

The building has been around for awhile. A restaurant has been in that spot since the 1940’s. It has something of a warehouse feel and look to it. The furnishings aren’t plush. They are serviceable. In other words, they “get the job done.” There were only a couple of unisex bathrooms with a long line of ladies waiting, but that’s not all that unusual, now is it?

Looking up from our table in the courtyard.

You can’t make a reservation, so expect to stand in line for awhile if you don’t go early for lunch or dinner. Gumbo Shop is open daily starting at 11:00 a.m. Sundays through Thursdays it closes at 10:00 p.m., but on Fridays and Saturdays it stays open until 11:00 p.m.

I did some research on creole vs. cajun cuisine before our recent trip to Louisiana. I found that cajun is considered “country food” while creole is “city food.” Cajun cooks generally don’t use fancy ingredients, tomatoes or dairy products. Their ingredients come from the land. The “Holy Trinity” of cajun cuisine consists of onion, celery and bell pepper, and a cajun roux is made with oil and flour. On the other hand, creole cooks use many spices, prepare creamy soups and sauces, and their roux is made with butter and flour. Mark Falgoust, Executive Chef at Grand Isle Restaurant, said, “Cajun folks used 1 chicken to feed 3 families. Creoles used 3 chickens to feed 1 family.” Chef Isaac Toops at Mid-City Restaurant summed it all up by saying, “We have incredible ingredients here in Louisiana. Farm to table, gulf to table, swamp to table. We have it all.” Suffice it to say, that visitors to south Louisiana are in for some mighty good food.

But, back to Gumbo Shop. Under their name, they proudly say “Creole Cuisine.” Items you will find on their menu that you’ll rarely find in North Alabama: boudin (a type of sausage made with pork and rice), andouille (a sausage), crawfish (it might be in remoulade, in etouffee or over pasta), po-boys (big sandwiches made on French bread), and bread pudding. Oh my, the bread pudding.

Chicken espagnole with rice.

Warm bread pudding with whiskey sauce — naturally the whiskey had been cooked down. We did NOT have to stagger back to our hotel. 🙂

Steve and I both ordered Complete Creole Dinners and got 3 courses for just $26.99 each. Actually a bargain in the French quarter, we thought. Perfect loaves of French bread are brought to the table to start the meal, and the rest was equally delicious. Besides the chicken and bread pudding pictured above, we had red beans and rice, 2 kinds of gumbo, macque choux corn, smothered turnip greens, shrimp creole and jambalaya. If you are a frequent visitor to New Orleans or if you are about to make your first trip, I believe you’ll be glad if you fit Gumbo Shop into your itinerary.

Capitol Park Museum in Baton Rouge, LA — A Pictorial Tour

04/04/2016 By: CCPearson2 Comments

The Capitol Park Museum in Baton Rouge has to go on my list of Best Museums Ever! Of course, the history and cultural diversity of Louisiana adds to the appeal, but the displays are so colorful, interactive and informative that they just draw you in, and you find yourself wandering without even thinking about the time. The admission price is very low. Both young and old like it. Steve and I loved it as well as the elementary school groups who were there at the same time. It’s well worth a couple of hours of your time. Click on each photo for a closer look.

On Christmas Eve, people in St. John the Baptist Parish build and burn bonfires like this all along the Mississippi River levee. It makes quite a spectacle.

These photos are just teasers. I’m sure you’ll be able to figure out one of my favorite sections — Louis Armstrong.

But, there was SO MUCH MORE.

Swamp Tour in South Louisiana

03/30/2016 By: CCPearsoncomment

My Silver Fox and I recently spent a glorious week between New Orleans and Baton Rouge touring antebellum plantations, eating cajun and creole food, and staying in beautiful inns. We were celebrating our 45th wedding anniversary. It seemed to me that we needed to do at least one thing JUST FOR HIM. He’s an outdoor guy who loves nature and the water. Why not a Swamp Tour? We decided on the Cajun Pride Swamp Tours company and had a great time. Check out this video from the Travel Channel — it’s precisely where we were!

Captain Thomas Adam Billiot — known in the swamp as Captain T Tom — is Houma and Cajun. He knows the swamp. He has even been featured on National Geographic and “Swamp People.” Andrew Zimmern of “Bizarre Foods” has been to his house! Captain Tom takes groups of people on tours a couple of days a week, and then has swamp duty for maintenance of this 5000 acres he refers to as a real “Man Shack.” He even guides tours at night where they build fires by the graveyard in the swamp, but Captain Tom warns that “the mosquitoes will tear you up — maybe 40-50 times!” No, thank you. In the month of September — Official Gator-Hunting Season — his main focus is on catchin’ gators, and he has had much success through the years. In other seasons, he catches turtles for soup, nutria rats and lots and lots of crawfish.

My Silver Fox with Captain T Tom.

Our visit was right as the recent flood waters were receding. Tom said that meant that gators and snakes were everywhere, and they’d even found water moccasins in the parking lot!! The maintenance crews had been working overtime to keep the areas well swept to try to minimize the possibility of a snakebite. Gulp. Believe me, I watched my steps.

After much trial and error with popcorn, Cheetos and the like, Captain Tom finally discovered that marshmallows are the preferred treat of swamp critters.

Captain Tom had marshmallows ready to feed the critters. This gator gobbled one right up.

We saw a large raccoon, lots of turtles, plenty of alligators, and white egrets during our tour, but mostly we were entertained by Captain Tom’s lively tales of life in and around the swamp.

White egret surveying the water.

Raccoons are an interesting part of the cycle of life in a swamp.

A raccoon is an interesting part of the cycle of life in a swamp.

There were a dozen or so noisy children on our tour who were only interested when we spotted a gator and when T Tom took a small one out of a bag he had on the boat (with its snout taped shut, thank goodness). The wiggly kids didn’t deter him one bit. He just kept on talking and guiding our boat without missing a beat.

A large alligator and several turtles share a sunny log.

I imagine it’s just like every fishing trip Steve goes on. Sometimes you “load the boat” and other times you “don’t get a bite.” I thought we saw plenty, but on other days you might see a lot more. I’d recommend you spend a few hours on the swamp, and hopefully, you’ll be lucky enough to get on one of T Tom’s boats.

Thick vegetation, water, and turtles.

A view of the wetlands.

Turtles enjoying the warm sun. The word for a group of turtles is a bale, by the way.

Hotel Mazarin: A Boutique Hotel on the Edge of the French Quarter in New Orleans

03/28/2016 By: CCPearson2 Comments

Recently, Steve and I spent a very comfortable and luxurious night at Hotel Mazarin on Bienville Street in the French Quarter section of New Orleans. Once we turned our car over to the valet, we were able to walk to all of the sights we were interested in seeing, such as Jackson Square, and the shops on Royal Street. One of our main destinations was dinner at Gumbo Shop, but that is a post for another day.

Exterior of Hotel Mazarin

When you walk into the lobby of the Mazarin, you feel like you’ve stepped into a completely different world. It is so elegant, calm, peaceful and quiet — quite a contrast to all that goes on outside the door. The lobby is small but beautifully furnished, and the staff is eager to meet your every need.

Lobby of Hotel Mazarin

There is a large courtyard with several stories of rooms wrapped around it. The lush plants as well as the large, noisy fountain attract happy birds. It makes a great location for quiet conversations and for breakfast after a restful night. The hotel has a fitness room, an elevator, and another smaller courtyard near the back with even more privacy.

Looking down on the courtyard from the 2nd floor

Courtyard fountain in the center of Hotel Mazarin

Rooms provide every amenity you’ve come to expect in a hotel room, plus a large shower that is tiled with marble. Hotel Mazarin takes its offer of free wi-fi very seriously. Steve had some connection issues, and they sent a tech guy up immediately. The tech guy contacted the people responsible for the service, and in just a few minutes, Steve was up and running. From the reception desk personnel to the valet attendant to the porter to the breakfast servers, all were committed to providing a superior experience.

Breakfast, by the way, was exceptional. No plastic forks or styrofoam cups and plates. All of your breakfast favorites are offered, in addition to scones and great coffee.

Colorful fresh fruit in the breakfast buffet

Hotel Mazarin has a great website, so give it serious consideration for your next trip to NOLA.

And, by the way, the owners of Hotel Mazarin will offer you an exclusive discount if you reserve with them through this link — www.neworleanshotelcollection.com/big Enjoy the Big Easy!

Collier’s on Main in the Small Town of Brundidge, AL

03/23/2016 By: CCPearson6 Comments

Well, of COURSE. Two people named Collier are going to be curious about a relatively new restaurant called Collier’s on Main. My dad (Tom COLLIER) lives in Troy, AL, and I (Connie COLLIER Pearson) have been able to spend a good bit of time with him there lately. And eating has been a regular activity. Brundidge is about 8 miles down Hwy. 231 from his house. We found Collier’s on Main in downtown Brundidge recently and enjoyed our meal, the atmosphere, and the people who work there a lot. We tried in vain to establish a branch of our family tree in common with the owners, however.

Outside sign in downtown Brundidge.

Logo engraved into the counter near the front door.

We were looking for our “main meal of the day,” so we opted for the meat and vegetables plates. It was very tasty. However, after talking later with Mo Caraway, the owner, next time I will try the fresh homemade salads that are her favorite items served at lunch. Specifically the greens, the homemade chicken salad and pimento cheese, and the tropical fruit medley. The dinner menu is extensive — from chicken and waffles to shrimp alfredo with many other possibilities in between. But, Mo recommends their steaks specifically which are served with a salad and a choice of side ranging from normal choices to sauteed spinach to garlic roasted red potatoes and beyond.

Recent lunch menu.

Hamburger steak with sauteed onions, creamed corn and butter beans.

Mo proudly showed me the outdoor patio in the back. Now that the weather is warming up, many diners will want to eat there. She also pointed to a brand new event center within a stone’s throw of the restaurant. There are already a number of reunions and weddings on the schedule. She mentioned 14 crystal chandeliers. I bet it’s beautiful!

If you want to hear a fun story, ask Mo about how the restaurant got its name. In her opinion — which is probably justified — Brundidge should have been named Collier or at least something similar. In fact, Mr. George C. Collier owned a general store just a few doors down from where the restaurant now sits. And, for awhile, the community around that store was simply known as “Collier’s Store.” Mo wants to acknowledge and recognize that heritage. I think it is also telling that the restaurant’s logo says “Est. 2015.” Collier’s on Main opened in September of 2015, and I believe that means they hope to thrive for many years to come.

Owner Mo Caraway on the right with server Lauren Pierce, Troy University student, on the left.

The decor and vibe is vintage in every sense of the word. Exhibit A is this short description on their menu and website: The wood in our table tops, on the main dining wall and the front of the bar have been re-purposed from the building and are decades old. Our floors evidence some character from the original construction and may cause your table or chair to rock a little. We are able to level the tables to work with the extra character of the floor. As for your chair, there is no extra charge for the rocking chair if you should wind up on one.” Ha! I love it. To me, that says, “We like our place and hope you’ll accept it just as it is.”

Part of the interior showing the re-purposed wood walls and concrete floors.

Collier’s on Main is open Tuesday and Wednesday until 2:00 and all day on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Check out the website for more information.

3 Restaurants in/near the Alabama Gulf Coast that I Recommend “Hungrily” :)

03/21/2016 By: CCPearson2 Comments

My Silver Fox and I found three WONDERFUL restaurants on a recent trip to the Alabama Gulf Coast. Two are relatively new, and one goes all the way back to 1958. They are not really in competition with each other. One is in Spanish Fort, one in Gulf Shores, and one in Orange Beach. Two are completely casual. One has a casual downstairs and a “dressy” upstairs. All three serve great seafood, but they each put their own spins on it and serve original recipes.

BLUEGILL is located on the Mobile Causeway within just a few miles of USS Alabama and the Battleship Memorial Park. The same owners also have nearby Felix’s Fish Camp. Both serve seafood, but they also have unique menus. BLUEGILL is famous for its Flaming Oysters. It has a capacity for 500 diners and offers nightly musical entertainment. By all means, go when you can take advantage of the gorgeous sunsets. Great food. Wonderful setting. Efficient staff. BLUEGILL was opened in 1958. Check out the website and read my fuller article here. Even Elvis liked it.

Grilled mahi mahi topped with crabmeat and cheese.

Sunset over the Mobile Delta at the back of BLUEGILL on the Mobile Causeway.

BLUEGILL Home of Famous Flaming Oysters, Spanish Fort, AL

2. BEACH HOUSE KITCHEN AND COCKTAILS is 1/2 block off of West Beach Boulevard in Gulf Shores, AL. You will love the fresh ingredients and housemade juices, dressings, and sauces. Owner Brent Sexton opened in November of 2014, and he is growing a very enthusiastic following. Indoor and outdoor seating with plenty of flatscreen TVs are available. Mike will hook you up with one of his special dessert creations. Key lime pie or red velvet cheesecake, anyone? Beach House was so clean. Everything gleamed. We were there for an early lunch. I’m sure it “hops” at night. Check out the website and read my article here.

Mahi mahi grilled tacos on pineapple slaw with fresh green beans and sauteed onions and black beans with spices and lime juice.

Beach House front sign — 1154 West Beach Boulevard in Gulf Shores, AL.

Interior of Beach House Kitchen.

3. FISHER’S AT ORANGE BEACH MARINA has a great location in a quiet cove. Chef Bill Briand is a recent nominee for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef in the South award. He oversees both the downstairs DOCKSIDE location and the more formal UPSTAIRS dining room. The food has a cajun influence because of Chef Bill’s background, and it is delicious. Owner Johnny Fisher opened in 2013 and by 2014 and 2015, Fisher’s was already recognized by Southern Living as being one of the Best Restaurants in the South. If you are very lucky, you might be seated at a table served by Elena. She is a delightful girl from Moldova. I had never met anyone from Moldova before. Fascinating. Check out the website and read my article here.

The serene marina beside Fisher’s in Orange Beach.

Hummus with garlic and onions served with freshly baked pita wedges. Yum!!

Fisher’s server Elena from Moldova

Two Hidden Treasures in Fairhope, AL

03/16/2016 By: CCPearson1 Comment

On a recent visit to Fairhope, AL, I had the privilege of spending time with a “local,” who also happens to be my long-time friend Vivian Oden Weaver, known in Fairhope as the town’s Official Mrs. Claus. We covered a lot of territory, conversation-wise, in the couple of hours we had together, but she also showed me a couple of places that are well-known to the locals but likely hidden from tourists. One is a great place to eat, the other a beautiful store for home decor and furnishings. Click on the photos for a closer look.

Vivian Weaver – Fairhope’s Official Mrs. Claus with a costume she designed and fashioned herself.

One was Sunset Pointe at Fly Creek Marina. It is right across the bay inlet from the yacht club and offers both indoor and outdoor waterfront dining. The hostess and servers were friendly, and the food was delicious and attractive. Check out these food photos and make your plans to include it in your next trip to the Gulf Coast.

Fresh, colorful house salad.

Crab Mac n Cheese

Fried Gulf Fish with sweet potato chips and grilled slaw.

The other place was a stunning shop located at 801 N. Section Street, Green Gates, owned by Vivian’s good friend, Rene Mashburn. This statement from the store’s website says it all — “Her . . . success is due to the inviting atmosphere, the selection of unique inventory and presentation. Everything is presented in beautiful vignettes.” Here are some pictures I took recently. Bear in mind that the vignettes are ever-changing. Also, a second location will open soon closer to the main downtown area.

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